Fall Guild Project - Build A Chair From Bulld%$t

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  • October 17, 2025 7:58 PM
    Reply # 13553540 on 13547871

    Making progress, will get legs and crest on tomorrow. I need to make the 1” and 5/8” wedges for the glue up. 


    3 files
    Last modified: October 18, 2025 11:22 AM | Travis Clark
  • October 18, 2025 5:55 AM
    Reply # 13553574 on 13547871
    John LeJeune (Administrator)

    Looks great!  Those barcode stickers, Uggh :-(

  • October 19, 2025 7:53 AM
    Reply # 13553760 on 13547871
    Mischief managed, I have a BS chair. I’m going to start another and use wood for the arm bow. I’m not a fan of the plywood!
    1 file
    Last modified: October 23, 2025 11:01 PM | Travis Clark
  • October 26, 2025 12:41 PM
    Reply # 13556301 on 13547871

    Arm bow is in the bending form!  One small split, but hoping cosmetic only!  This is green red oak. I think I'd stack the odds in my favor more if I had a backer strap on the bend.  Had to recruit an assistant for this maneuver!

    2 files
  • October 27, 2025 7:53 AM
    Reply # 13556464 on 13547871
    John LeJeune (Administrator)

    Looks great Chris!  I'm curious about the one Pony/Jorgensen clamp? :-)

    Last modified: October 27, 2025 7:54 AM | John LeJeune (Administrator)
  • October 27, 2025 12:51 PM
    Reply # 13556608 on 13547871

    How strong is hide glue? Strong enough for a seat?

    I took top of the donor desk I'm using for the project to a FIG meeting. And consensus was 4/4 quarter sawn tight grain white oak. Since the plan calls for 6/4 seat, I'd considered stacking the halves of the top then planing down to 6/4. But even at 4/4 it's pretty hefty. Someone also pointed that out, as well as that the seats of all of the stick chairs in the house we were at were about 4/4. 

    All good, but now it occurs to me the top is actually multiple boards - is the existing seam likely to be solid enough??? Looks and feels tight, and there's what is probably hide glue on the mortise & tenons, so probably hide glue on the tongue & groove seam. That enough? This design doesn't have stretchers, so a bit more torque on the seat.

    As a side note, the carrier frame for the desk top has a corrugated fastener at each corner, so between that and the hide glue means 40's or 50's.

  • October 27, 2025 10:30 PM
    Reply # 13556822 on 13547871

    Nice job Travis!

    Chris, glad to see doing the bending thing. Did you you use the baggie steamer trick?

  • October 28, 2025 7:40 AM
    Reply # 13556887 on 13547871
    John LeJeune (Administrator)

    Hi Ray,

    I's suggest re-reading pages 20 & 21 on chair seat material.  Looks like all of your questions posed are there. He covers use what you got through solid oak.  

    Glue?  Remember most times the wood fails before the glue joint fails. 

    Lack of stretchers?  Chris would quote Joey from Friends: "It's a moo point" There are just as many hundred year old chairs with no stretchers as there are with.  

  • October 29, 2025 8:53 AM
    Reply # 13557358 on 13547871
    John LeJeune (Administrator)

    Hi John,

    Do you have tips on how to use India ink as a finish for the chair?

    Linda Smith

    _____

    Hi Linda,

    Yes,

    Sand and make pretty before applying the ink. 

    Clean off all the sawdust and wipe down. I used mineral spirits.

    I used Speedball Super Black India Ink.  Pour a little into a small cup to make using it easier.   I used a 1 pint deli container like the kind cream cheese comes in.

    Brush on the ink using a 1", 1.5" or 2" brush. Cheap china bristle is fine, you will most likely throw it away after.  Start with the chair upside down.  Start on the bottom of the seat.  This will give you a place to get acquainted with how the ink goes on early in the process. Apply the ink sparingly. cover the underneath surfaces  and then flip the chair over and coat the whole chair.  Usually the ink dries so fast you can apply the next coat right away, starting on the bottom again.  Apply three coats total.  You will most likely use only a few ounces of the ink. I was surprised how little I used. 

    Let the ink dry overnight before applying wax.  I used the Lost Art Press Soft Wax 2.0 recipe. Applying the wax with a gray Scotch Brite abrasive like pad. Wipe the wax off  ~10 minutes after applying the wax.  

    You may notice the wax pulling off some of the pigment.  Don't fret.  Wipe the wax off thoroughly and it will build a matt sheen. I used a huck towel That Chris Schwarz recommends.  Wiping it down well will remove any stray pigment. ( I gave it one last wipe with a paper towel)

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